Have any of you gone through a period in your life where you lost your stoke for surfing?
If you have I can relate!
I have recently lost my Grom - like stoke for surfing and I’ve been trying to get it back ever since!
I don’t know the exact moment it happened, I do know once I had my daughter ( she is 7 now ) my surf sessions went from 5 hours to about 45 minutes and It was ok, I was still able to get really good waves in that 45 minute time and came out of the water so happy and satisfied. I started to feel ok about getting less waves and the way I viewed surfing started to change.
I didn’t want to fight as much in the peak to catch waves and started to drift down the beach where there were less people.
Surfing become less about me performing and more about connecting with the ocean.
Before I had been using surfing as a way to get my emotions out. I had all this energy built up inside of me and surfing was my channel to release it.
I wasn’t comfortable on land in my body as I was when I was surfing.
When I was surfing I was able to express myself in ways that on land I didn’t know how to. Especially when relating with people.
Surfing was my outlet and a place where I could truly be me, my authentic self.
For the past years I have been diving deep into my inner world, I am more authentic and much more comfortable on land and relating with other people.
I haven’t needed surfing like I used to.
My relationship with the part of me that surfs has changed as Ive changed and am looking forward to what’s next.
The inspired steps I am taking now to explore finding my stoke again are:
Buy myself a NEW Surfboard
Go on a Surf Retreat / Surf Trip
Watch Surf Videos
Train & Yoga
the last step and this one might be the most true for me at this moment is to just let it be. Accept it fully for what it is without trying to CHASE my stoke or FIND it again and just trust that all is meant to be how it’s meant to be and when the time is right I’ll get STOKED again to surf!
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-Marjie
